Costume as Art

Any man, no matter the stage of civilization he has reached, is a “creator” – sometimes even without realizing it - in the fascinating domain of ornamental arts, costume included. From tattooing to the choice of a neck-tie the creative process is the same: through clothes, size, rhythm, colour and other means of artistic expression, each individual tries to create an appearance as close as possible to the ideal he wishes to embody in life, correcting his imperfections when needed.

Everywhere on the Earth dress meets the need of the human body to be protected from the inclemencies of the weather (from the cold by furs, from the rain by hats, raincoats or other varieties characteristic of wet regions, etc.). Even in the warm parts of the globe a minimum of clothing is never absent. As in this case its function is no longer practical, the reason given has been modesty, though its meaning has greatly varied in course of time and in point of space (both historical and geographical). The result of prejudice enforced by the ruling classes, morality has branded the baring of parts of the human body which at the time were covered by garments (in the 17thcentury, for instance, in Spain, etiquette forbade any lady of high rank to let the point of her shoes show from under her skirt).

From the earliest times to this day, the main reason why costume was created – even when there was no need to cover the body – was to change man’s physical appearance through artistic means common to sculpture and painting.

Considering that more often than not the main object of dress is to reveal a particular social significance – even in tropical regions – adornment ensures the artistic expression of the structure and relationships of the respective social system.

Generally speaking, there are only three types of clothing:

1) The anatomic type includes what are known as tailor-made garments. They originated in a cold climate. The type of costume consisted of a close-fitting jacket or shirt and tight trousers or skirt.

2) The draped type of clothing originated in those regions where weaving was first invented. This type is associated with a mild climate. Long lengths of material are arranged over the body to hang in loose folds. The material is never cut and seldom sewn. The Greek and Roman costumes are excellent examples of draped clothing.

3) The composite type is clothing in which both draping and tailoring are used. Such are garments of today.

4.1. 2ndreading for more detailed comprehension. Let’s define the problems the author speaks about in the text. Don’t forget to use the phrases given below.

I think you are quite right ... Far from that ...

I suppose so ... That’s not quite so ...

I agree with you ... It seems to be wrong ...

1) The text gives us information about different types of costumes which people wear now.

2) The text gives the classification of types of clothes which people wore in the past.

3) The text informs us about different artistic means which the man uses to create his appearance.

4) The text describes the main reasons of creating costume.

5) The text gives the description of three types of clothes known to the man.

6) The text informs us about various functions of costume.

7) The text describes some problems of creating modern costume.

8) The text gives the detailed description of the composite type of clothes.

4.1.2. Complete the sentences using the text.

1) Any man is a “creator” – sometimes even without realizing it – (в удивительной области декоpативного искусства, куда относят и костюм).

2) Each individual tries to create an appearance as close as possible (к идеалу, котоpый он хочет воплотить в жизнь, коppектиpуя пpи необходимости свои физические недостатки).

3) In the 17thcentury, for instance, in Spain the etiquette forbade any lady of high rank (показывать кончик туфли из-под юбки).

4) The main reason why costume was created – even when there was no need to cover the body – (изменить внешний вид человека с помощью художественных сpедств).

5) The draped type of clothing originated in those regions (где впеpвые было изобpетено ткачество).

6) The main object of dress in main cases is (показать опpеделенную социальную значимость личности).

4.1.3. Try to remember the attributes used with the following nouns in the text. (Постаpайтесь вспомнить, какие опpеделения используются в сочетании с данными существительными в тексте):

arts, process, expression, classes, times, type, garments, costume, jacket, trousers, clothing, reason, significance, regions, system, means, appearance, body, the... object of dress.

4.1.4. Answer the questions to the text.

1) What does each individual try to create through different means of artistic expression? 2) Does he want to give all possible information about himself? 3) Does he want to improve his appearance through clothes? 4) What is the main function of clothes? 5) What is the function of clothes in the warm parts of the Earth? 6) Why was costume created? 7) What does the author say about the main object of dress? 8) How do you understand words ‘costume’, ‘dress’ in the context of this text? 9) Do you think costume is a complex phenomenon? 10) Why did the draped type of clothing originate in regions with a mild climate?

4.1.5. Make up as many sentences as possible, translate them and then reproduce 10 sentences by memory.

Text B. Read the text and find the sentence that expresses its main idea. Identify the function of the other sentences.

“The Long and the Short of Fashion”

The obvious functions of costume are, first, to cover and protect the body, and, second, to enhance attractiveness.

But it also expresses the social and economic aspects of an era.

Some historical examples: in the 15thand 16thcenturies, when Spain was the most powerful European country, Spanish fashion influence was dominant.

After the middle of the 16thcentury, European power passed to France-and so did fashion dominance.

But let us look more closely at the fashion developments of the last 50 years, since it is only in this period that fashion has any relevance whatever to the lives of the majority of women.

After 1918 there was a post-war boom. Skirts immediately went up to knee-length.

Social factors involved were that boyish styles, flat bosoms, and the cutting of long hair were a symbolic rejection by women of any return to their pre-war status.

Then came the depression. So skirts went down to ankle length.

Now, between 1940 and 1945 there was, of course, no French fashion influence.

British fashion development in those years was related to the availability of material (so skirts got shorter); to use of the making-up industry geared up to military styles, hence all those square shoulders and battle dress pockets; and to social factors (the wartime outlook of all being fighters together).

But ten years later, the economic balance of the clothing world had shifted. The textile industry had begun to decline, but retail trade was growing: women were buying clothes more often. Up went hemlines.

4.2. Say if skirts become shorter in the period of economic depression or when life becomes better. Prove your position by the facts from the text. Suggest your title of the text.

4.2.1. Name the historic events and social factors that have influenced the fashion developments in our century.

4.2.2. Translate the following word combinations from the text. Identify the main word in each group:

to enhance attractiveness; Spanish fashion influence; knee- length; the cutting of long hair; ankle-length; French fashion dominance; British fashion developments; the making-up industry; square shoulders; battle dress pockets; retail trade; availability of material; the most powerful European country.

4.2.3. Скажите, какая инфоpмация Вам была известна до чтения текстов А, В и что нового Вы узнали.

I knew that ... I didn’t know that ... I have learnt that ...

4.2.4. Cравните содержание текстов А и В. Скажите, какого характера информация преобладает в тексте В. Можно ли считать его логическим продолжением текста А? Обобщите содеpжание текстов в письменной форме (объём 180–200 слов), по возможности упрощая и сокращая предложения. Используйте упpажнение 2.1.5.

5. Oral Practice

5.1. Do you know how to compliment people on clothes and appearance? Let’s learn to do this.

Speech Patterns: Replies/ Answers